Apricots & Frangipane in Puff Pastry with Ascolano Mascarpone Cream
Summer Fruit Desserts
We're fortunate to have both peaches and apricots growing on our property, and fully ripened apricots are quite abundant this week. Donald has already picked and processed 12 quarts, and there are plenty more on the tree, enough that we'll happily share with the neighbors and even the scrub jays. I've been enjoying blending a ripe apricot into my morning yogurt with assorted seeds and a generous pour of Ascolano, and that was the inspiration for today's dessert--the notion that Ascolano is a splendid pairing with all sorts of dairy and, because of its highly aromatic peach-like aroma, especially lovely with stone fruits.
We had some leftover puff pastry in the freezer from our Torta Pasqualina trials (we ended up using phyllo for that), and met to talk about flavors and textures. Donald suggested he make frangipane because almond is a flavor that marries well with peaches and apricots, and I suggested that we flavor a mascarpone cream with Ascolano, creating yet another stone fruit reference--frangipane, apricots, and ascolano flavors one atop another.
Creamy and fruity Ascolano Mascarpone, lightened with cream; pleasingly soft ripe cooked apricots, highly aromatic and naturally caramelized in the oven from their high sugar level a plus sprinkle of added sugar; golden almond-butter-egg-rich frangipane atop crispy layers of puff pastry; this was a decadent an afternoon treat for us. Although the ingredient and instruction list looks long, this dessert is simple to make. We have plenty more of all of the ingredients, so we'll be making it for our weekend guest in a few days, too.
Apricots & Frangipane in Puff Pastry with Ascolano Mascarpone Cream
We'll write about the various components of this dessert separately and hope you can use one or more of them in your dessert making at home. By far the simplest among them is our suggestion to add Lucero Ascolano EVOO to dairy to introduce a peachy aroma. The subtle herbaceous finish of our signature olive oil also contributes a nuanced bit of green to balance sweet flavors--a technique I learned from the late Chef Bill Briwa from the Culinary Institute of America in Napa. Bill was a talented and much loved chef-instructor at CIA for 23 years, a fierce advocate for authentic extra virgin olive oil, and a dear colleague who is greatly missed. - Liz
Almond frangipane is a common mise en place item for pastry chefs used as a base for tarts with or without fruits as well as a filling for Danish style pastries. It puffs and browns nicely around fruit when baked and has a pleasant butter-almond flavor with a tender crumb. I use it here where the almond flavor goes nicely with stone fruit.
I chose to use salted butter because I find that the flavor of the final product is well balanced. My favorite brand is Président from France, made from rBST-free (hormone-free) cultured cream made from grass fed cows. This butter has a tangy and nutty flavor versus a sweet cream butter. If you prefer to use unsalted butter you'll want to add salt to taste. You can also flavor this in many different ways; if you're not a fan of almond extract use the vanilla alone. You can also dispense with the extracts altogether a try this with a tablespoon of dark rum.
The puff pastry used here is commercial, not homemade. I cut it into a rectangle wide enough to fit a single row quarter-cut apricots with a bit of room on the sides. Rounds or free form shapes would also be pleasing. If you are lucky enough to live next to a store or bakery that sells real butter puff pastry, by all means, use that. You can also make any of your favorite pastry doughs in place of the puff pastry. - Donald
Ingredients
Almond Frangipane
1/3 cup granulated sugar
4 oz almonds, traditionally blanched, however we used whole almonds for a more rustic look and texture.
2 oz room temperature butter
2 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/4 tsp almond extract
Puff Pastry
2 sheets commercial puff pastry, approximately 16 oz, cut as desired
Finely chop the almonds and sugar in a food processor
Add the butter and blend into the almonds and sugar until well incorporated
Add the eggs and extracts and blend until well incorporated
Chill for 1 hour or more before using to thicken the cream. This makes it easier to spread. Yield, approximately 1 cup or 10 oz.
Preparing the Puff Pastry
Thaw according to package directions
Cut sheets into the shape desired. The finished photo above was achieved with one layer as the base, then four skinny pieces for a second layer fashioned into a rim. Dock pastry with a fork. Note: this recipe will enable you to make TWO pastries, one with each sheet.
Assembling and Baking the Pastry
Spread ½” layer of frangipane onto the docked puff pastry
Slice the apricots (or peaches) into a shape that fits the pastry shape you made and that pleases you. We cut apricots into quarters for the image above.
Arrange the fruit on top of the frangipane and sprinkle a tiny bit of granulated sugar on top for extra glossy caramelized effect in baking
Beat 2 tbsp of milk (or half n half) into an egg and brush the pastry to achieve a shiny golden brown finish
If using puff pastry bake for about 25 minutes in a preheated 400°F oven. Use a 350°F oven for regular pastry dough and bake for about 35 minutes. Look for a light browning of the frangipane and pastry to know when it’s done.
Ascolano Mascarpone Cream
Blend all ingredients in a cold bowl and whip with a beater attachment to a mixer or by hand with a balloon whisk. Beat until soft peaks are formed. Do not over mix or it will turn grainy. Serve with the pastry.
Recipe Note
Cool your pastry for about 10 minutes, slice and add a dollop of Ascolano mascarpone cream to serve. We finished the plate up by dripping a few more drops of Ascolano EVOO on top of the mascarpone for both visual interest and higher Ascolano impact.
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