December 28, 2023

Olive Oil Gougères with Mornay Duxelles Filling

A delicate round  Limoges Platter is filled with 7 Gougères with Mornay Duxelles filling. The bottom of a bottle of Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque is barely seen on the edge of the image.

After more than a decade working in or running a large catering kitchen, Donald was a restaurant pastry chef in San Francisco and Oakland many years ago, a position well-suited to his thoughtful and precise personality. When I suggested we publish a new recipe for New Year's Eve he did not hesitate:  "I'd like to do olive oil gougéres".

Similar to our discussion about olive oil brioche, I had to stop and ask if that was a real thing, and a quick search indicates that many cooks come before us using olive oil when making pâte à choux. If you enjoy baking and pastry making, I think you'll find this post by Chef Emer about "How to balance choux pastry" a good reference.

Whether made with butter or olive oil, gougéres are defined by adding grated Gruyère to choux pastry, and Donald doubles down on the cheese with a classic Mornay sauce (a béchamel to which Gruyère has been added). A duxelles of mushroom and fresh herbs give a nice counterpoint as a filling.

Happy cooking, and Happy New Year!
Liz (& Donald)



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